Thursday, February 25, 2010

✂-The Designer's Tip of The Day-Broderie Anglaise

Broderie Anglaise, also known as Eyelet, is a fine, plain-weave cotton that has been embroidered in such a way as to make small holes. Usually white or pastel color and often times forms a scalloped and embroidered edge.

Cutting out: may need to layout to place embroidery at hem edge.

Seems: plain, neatened with serger or zigzag stitch; a French seam can also be used.

Needle: machine size 12/14; sharps for hand sewing.

Use for: baby clothes, summer skirts, dresses and blouses.

Source: The Sewing Book, by Alison Smith

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

✂-Designer's Tip of The Day- Revisit History

Often times a designer will get "writer's block" and may feel a lack of inspiration. Returning to the well or taking a trip back through time, however, could be a great way to refresh the mind. These images are from the late 1800's but the details can easily be translated into today's modern styles.

Image Source- Fashion- A History from the 18th to the 20th Century, by The Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

✂-Designer's Tip of The Day- Pattern Making Tools

Working With the right tools will make block and pattern making easier.  These are just some of the key tools required.

-L-Square Ruler- Used for measuring and drawing lines at right angles.
-Clear Ruler- Easy to see through to add seam allowances to patterns.
-Notcher- This is used for marking the edge of a pattern to line up pattern pieces, (not to be used on fabric).
-Tracing Wheel- This tracing wheel has sharp spikes so that a pattern could be traced through fabric or thick paper.
-French Curve- Works great for necklines and armholes
-Hip Curve- Can be used for subtle curves such as waist and hips.

There are other tools that should not be forgotten such as an awl, scissors, and a tape measure.... But this should get you started on your pattern making adventures!

Monday, February 22, 2010

✂-Designer's Tip of The Day- Hemp Fabric

Hemp comes from the stems of the Cannabis Sativa plant which are processed to release the fibers.  The resulting yarns are woven into a strong, coarse cloth that looks and handles much like linen.

Fabric Characturistics:
-Hemp frays and wrinkles badly.
-It has poor elasticity and is difficult to ease.
-Hemp fabrics shrink and soften when laundered.
-It is absorbent and comfortable to wear.
-It is strong when wet and resistant to mildew.

Compared to Linen, it is stronger, coarser, and more durable.  It dyes well and dries quickly.
Hemp is a great fabric to use when looking for all natural fibers.

Source- The Fashion Designer's Directory of Shapes by Simon Travers-Spencer and Zarida Zaman
Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide 2nd Edition

Sunday, February 21, 2010

✂-Designer's Tip of The Day-Fashion Illustration

Fashion Illustration is a fundamental tool for presenting a designer's creations. When sketching a new creation, a fashion designer is more likely to produce an image with exaggerated proportions and features, or an idealized silhouette, which shows off the garments main characteristics, than a realistic figure.
These are just a few images that show range of diversity in style, technique, and personal flair. Images by Eric c.1936, Alfred Bouret c.1957, Rene' Gruau c.1936, Bobby Hillson c.1965, Junichi Nakahara c.1960 Tanya Ling c.2000

Source- 100 Years of Fashion Illustration by Cally Blackman 

Saturday, February 20, 2010

✂-Designer's Tip of the Day: What is Romanticism?

What is Romanticism?
A reaction to the excessive rationality of the Enlightenment and emphasising emotion, ethereality and sensitivity, Romanticism dominated fashion, as well as other arts, in the period from around 1820 to 1850. An exaggerated silhouette, it was characterised by full 'leg o' mutton' sleeves, yawning necklines, puffed-out skirts and unnaturally small waists. Women once again stepped back into their corsets having only just relinquished them during the Neoclassical period.

Source- ...isms understanding fashion by Mairi Mackenzie

Friday, February 19, 2010

✂-Designer's Tip of The Day- Cutting Lightweight Silk

Lightweight silks are very slippery and shift offgrain easily. Take care when cutting since these fabrics will not hang properly if they are cut off-grain. It is easier to straighten fabrics on a surface with a grid such as cardboard or rotary cutting mat or a grain cloth. When fabric is particularly difficult to control, spread it on a flannel-backed vinyl cloth.
Happy Sewing!

Source- Clair Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide 2nd Edition