Puffing is an heirloom technique used to add visual interest and texture to a garment without the additional costs of fine laces and embroideries. Puffing strips can be sewn in straight rows in a garment.
This can easily be done by tearing, not cutting, the fabric (suggest lightweight cottons) strip for puffing. The width of the strip should be 1/2" wider on each side for the seam allowance and the lengths should be 2 1/2-3" times longer than the desired finished length.
Insert one edge of the flat fabric strip under the gathering foot and place the needle 1/2" in from the cute edge. Sew down one long side, creating soft gathers.
Follow the same step for the other side of the fabric strip.
Note: It is important that you begin your gathering from the same end each time to avoid diagonal gathering.
Gently pull on the right and left side of the gathered strip. The gathers wil straighten and become more horizontal. Pin the puffing strip to an ironing surface, steam-press, and allow to dry in the pinned position.
Attach the finished strip as desired.
Tip: Tearing the batiste strip will assure that the fabric is on grain essential for straight, even puffing.
Source: Encyclopedia of Sewing Machine Techniques by Nancy Bednar and JoAnn Pugh-Gannon
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