Thursday, September 16, 2010

✂-Designer's Tip of The Day-Erte'


Who was Erte'?
His legal name was Romain de Tirtoff; Erte' is the French pronunciation of his initials (R.T.).  Russian born, in 1892 working in Paris (he arrived there in 1912). He was a diversely-talented 20th century artist and designer who flourished in an array of fields, including fashion, jewelry, graphic arts, costume and set design, for film, theatre, and opera, and interior design.


Erte' made is American debut with a cover for Harper's in January 1915.  It was so well received that before the year was out, he was given not only another cover (November) but also a varying number of pages within the magazine.  In the following years he steadily contributed cover designs, sketches and his own brand of commentary. 


With the exception of a few minor detail drawings, Erte's sketches show a highly personal concept of a complete woman: Costume, hat or headdress, coiffure, shoes and all mannor of enchanting accessories.  He was superbly inventive.  Most of the clothes he created, through the skillful manipulation of lengths of fabrics, required few seams.  Many were merely simple geometric pieces ingeniously draped or put together by buttoning, knotting or lacing the various separate parts.  So popular were his contributions to Harper's that women eagerly awaited each issue to see what Erte' was up to.  Discerning designers and dressmakers could glean ideas for their own creations.  The majority of the women, however, were content to enjoy and muse over the esthetic beauty of the colorful covers and the lyrical fantasy of the black-and-white drawings.

What has inspired me most about Erte' was his ability to not limit himself to one medium, he sketched, designed costumes, jewelry, dresses, sets for film and theater.  He had many outlets for his creativity and  lived in his own world of imagination.

Source- Fashion Drawings and Illustrations From "Harper's Bazar" by Erte' Dover Books

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

✂-Designer's Tip of The Day-Use a Ham!

It's really important to press sewing projects at every stage.
A tailor's ham is a ham-shaped stuffed fabric cushion used for pressing curves.  A sleeve roll is much the same, but is more of a sausage shape and is used for pressing seams on sleeves without crushing the rest of the sleeve.  Once you have them, you will find loads of uses for them.  Both of these were found at vintages stores, but you could easily make your own.

-To make a tailor's ham, draw around the plate of an averages-sized iron. Add about 1 1/4" all around and round off the corners.
-Using this pattern, cut two pieces of muslin, one piece of wool, and one piece of pure cotton.
-Layer a piece of muslin, the layer of wool face up, the cotton face down, the other muslin piece.
-Sew around, leaving a 4" gap.
-Turn out and stuff with sawdust. Use a funnel to get it in and a ruler to poke it down. The ham must be stuffed really firmly.
-Sew up the gap.
-After a week or two the sawdust compacts, so unpick the gap and add more.

Source- The Sewing Bible by Ruth Singer

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

✂-Designer's Tip of The Day-Know Your Terms


I'm so excited that people have been interested in Designing and Sewing their own clothing! I've had quite a few questions lately in regards to understanding the Terminology of Pattern Making and Design, so in resuming the "Tip of the Day", I combed every pattern, draping and sewing book to find a few vocabulary words that I hope you find useful:

Croquis- A flat, 2-D sketch of a fashion model or models used to illustrate a garment or a collection of garments.

Dart Intake- The intake is the extra space, or quantity of fabric, the ensures that when a dart is sewn, the end result isn't to tight.

Design- The creative art of combining and arranging elements including line, color and texture according to principles of form and function, balance and proportion, harmony and contrast in order to achieve aesthetically pleasing and function results. (I say,  just be creative!)

Drafting Method- This is one method of pattern making and involves the transfer of a pattern directly onto the pattern paper using straight lines and curves, (use a French curve as shown above).

Drape-Draping is a fine art and a unique way of pattern making.  It involves placing the material against the figure measurements you will be working with and "draping" until you get the desired effect.  Once you achieve a shape you are happy with, you mark and pin the areas where you want the darts to be and then start creating the shape from this, (personally my favorite way to design and make patterns).

Flat Pattern Method- This is one way of pattern making and starts with the creation of the block; a basic interpretation of the garment design which is simply made with the wearer's measurements.  It is then refined by making a series of mock-ups.  Gradually the items takes shape.  This is one of the most traditional pattern making methods.

Grain- Direction of threads in woven fabric.  Lengthwise, long warp threads should meet shorter weft threads at right angles (90 degrees).

Truing- If someone says that they are truing their pattern it basically means that they are going through a double-checking process and making sure that all seams, on the left and the right, are measuring up and are of equal length and depth.

All these terms and more are listed on our webstie: www.designandlounge.com

Monday, September 13, 2010

♥ Leather Collection

This Collection was inspired by the idea of soft silhouettes and feminine details combined with an "edgier" material such as leather.  The lightweight leather being used allows the garments to drape.  Silk Chiffon is also being used to soften the toughness of leather and add a hint of delicate to the garments. 
These styles are all available for custom order.  For more info please email us at info@designandlounge.com

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Christine Wade- Intern ♥


Welcome Christine!
Christine is our newest intern and we are SO EXCITED to have her on board!  Christine is currently a UNM student and is working to get her degree in Foreign Languages.  She has always had a passion for fashion and would like to travel, studying the culture and fashion in different countries through out the world.
Thank you Christine for all your help!!

Thursday, September 2, 2010

Exciting New Home!


We are SOOO excited to be in our new location! The last two weeks have been spent painting, moving, and redecorating! Despite the few odds and ends that still need to be taken care of, the new space looks and feels great! Please feel free to stop in, say Hi! and pick up the Calender for September. If you're wondering what classes are being offered check out our classes online- http://designandlounge.com/September_Classes.html

Hope to see you soon at the new location!
7101 Menaul NE. Suite C
Albuquerque NM 87110.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Craft Punk Vol.3 Fashion Show!



Evolution Piercing Presents: Craft Punk Benefit Fashion Show, Vendor Fair and Silent Auction.

We believe that everyone is creative and those who pursue their creative interests lead more fulfilled lives. Our mission is to promote local artists and designers, raise money for a local non-profit organization that supports the arts, and inspire everyone involved and attending. All designers and performers are donating their time and ...talents. We are donating all proceeds from the door and silent auction to the OFFCenter Community Arts Project.

Date: Friday the 13th of August 2010

Venue: The Launchpad, 21+

Time: Doors at 8pm, Fashion Show at 9pm

Ticket Price: $10 in advance at Evolution Piercing, The Designer's Lounge, or www.launchpadrocks.com

Fashion show, vendor fair, and silent auction will feature the work of over a dozen local designers including:
The Designer's Lounge (Teresa Romero)
Ammunition (Jeffrey Gonzales)
B.E.L. (Brianna Lehman)
My Heart's Debacle (Sarah Madden)
Hillbilly Rasquache (Maggie Ross)
Hotel NM (Jessica Rimmer)
NikkiZabicki Crystal Celeste (Crystal Sims)
Skulldigger (Tom Kennedy)
Cozy Rozy (Rochelle Tittmann)
Vanguard Studio (Michael Tomlinson)
OFFCenter (various contributers)
Electric Nomad (Sandra Williams)
Kristen Koffman

Performances by:
DJ Brandangerous (Brendan Godfrey)
SayWhut?! (Ashley Moyer)
Monster Paws (Isaac Kappy and Nate Santa Maria)
Boxcar Strainsun (Will Phillips)
Evolution Piercing (play piercing performance)
Nate Santa Maria